Pan's USA Trip #2 Bonneville Salt Flats

The end of July has come with boiling heat although it's still morning. I arrive at work sweating more than most other people and 1-sheet of paper is handed over from TANK-san. Seem to be (a message) from BOSS.

"To PAN: Business Trip to Bonneville from August 14"

It was my good fortune that I was given the challenge of photographing El Mirage, Dry Lakes Races in May, having gained a precious personal experience, but to be able to go to Bonneville just can't be!! It's the 60th Annual Bonneville Speedweek this year, Fred's Streamliner being one of the featured machines on the event poster, and Chico-san's '27 Modified T-LSR was painted to match that same scheme. Up to that point my thoughts were simply that an amazing event was going to take place far away.

This time I got the chance to go to Bonneville! Presented below in a diary format is what I saw, heard, and felt. Before you proceed I want to say that of course, 100 people would come back with 100 versions and experiences at Bonneville so naturally there may be some that disagree with my version. I also go off topic on many occasions with non-Bonneville related content too. So please just enjoy my story, as it is, to the end!!

14 AUG (THURSDAY)
August 14, the day I finally depart, marks the beginning of OBON WEEK in Japan which has turned into an annual summer vacation for most people. My trip will be 8 nights (10 days) and compared to the last trip is a much longer period. Therefore I am only bringing just enough clothes, a hat, my passport and the all-important camera. After greeting the Area-1 Staff and BOSS that came to see me off this morning, we depart. TANK-san gives me a ride to the YCAT bus terminal that will take me to Narita Airport.

Every year around this time, since being part of MOON SPACE Agency, it starts to get really busy with producing the company catalog. However, I was given a stern "Don't worry about that right now." Unlike El Mirage, I travel alone but manage to get on the plane without any particular issues. Although being OBON season, the airport was very crowded. On the flight, I got a center seat surrounded by an elementary school team and arrived in LAX with hardly any sleep at all.

But so far, so good! Upon arrival, I remembered on the last trip that Customs Immigration was cleared without exchanging one word with the Customs agent. But this time they seemed to be randomly and thoroughly asking questions.

You see, for someone like me that knows almost no English at all, questions are typically answered immediately with a clueless grin and "Yes!" - in rapid succession. So that is what I did and without even realizing it, the mood quickly began to sour. Then, with a serious look on the agent's face, a finger was pointed and a gesture was given to proceed in a different direction than the exit! "If only I had studied English..." is what I had pondered as I headed over to an area where they open one's luggage and take everything out for a complete search.

The person there was obviously aware that I did not understand English as he pointed to a board that had text in KANJI writing already prepared to confirm if I had any of the listed things - at which time I replied with a "No!" - firing off in repeated succession. Apparently, while shooting my "Yes" answers I admitted to carrying meats, fruits and other things that are not allowed. They eventually cleared and released me. Chico-san came to pick me up and was teasing because he noticed the look on my face and immediately knew I had been stopped. But I was relieved that I made it safely.

I arrived at MOONEYES USA. Doug, on my last trip was extremely helpful with assisting me, looked really busy. But when he noticed me, he actually stopped and smiled, then came over to greet me. For lunch, Chico-san, Doug and I went out to eat and Doug said, "Your El Mirage Report was excellent!" I never thought Doug would actually read it so I was truly grateful for his comment.

We depart for Bonneville on Saturday so today was preparation work across the Machine Shop in the garage as well as collecting store items that will be sold while we are there. While doing this, I finally got to meet Yoshi-san. He is mentioned now and then in the BOSS' blog. At first impression he was soft spoken and quiet but within a few days, it felt like we knew each other for years. As Yoshi-san showed me around we collected items to be sold on our trip such as T-Shirts and Auto Parts and loaded them up on the MOONEYES Trailer. On my last trip there wasn't much time spent in the garage but with the radio playing and work in progress it was really cool to see.

With the day ending, collecting more products to sell was paused, but the Machine Shop continued work in preparation of Bonneville.

Another person that was very helpful on my last trip was Tim and he showed up about this time!! Everyone really looked excited to finally see the finished project that everyone had been working on. From nothing to complete. What ever they didn't have, they made it from scratch.

Chico asked, "You want me to take you back to the motel first?" Not wanting to interrupt their progress, I refused saying, "That's OK, no problem." With almost no sleep since leaving Japan, I eventually fell asleep at some point outside of the Machine Shop. They finished working after midnight and we got to the motel at 1:30 AM. With all this happening in one long day, August 14 was finally over.

15 AUG (FRIDAY)
Without delay, right when we arrive at MOONEYES USA, preparation work begins. We leave tomorrow, so any preparation work must be done by today. The day just beginning, the installation of each body panel slowly takes form and when it's finished, the '27 Modified T-LSR is complete.

The trailer is still in bare metal but it is also complete. The first thing that comes to mind when looking at the '27 Modified T-LSR is "COOL" and while thinking this, Doug standing next to me has a big grin and look on his face like "Right?"

Everything necessary for Bonneville is packed in the VAN and the '27 Modified T-LSR is loaded on the trailer. Preparation completed, the atmosphere is calm. The Dragster project is outside and Chico-san goes over to clean it up. Then the unexpected happens... CHICO-SAN!! He looks like a old Japanese courier. Everyone bursts out laughing. Then he put on the perfect fitting hat and trots away and disappears into the Machine Shop. Alright! Finally, tomorrow we head for BONNEVILLE!!

16 AUG (SATURDAY)
The day is finally here and we move towards Bonneville. I wonder just how far apart I wonder how far apart is Bonneville and California. I was told it's about 12 hours by car. I've never been on a roadtrip driving 12 hours straight before so that didn't really help. But still, it sounds quite far. I will be riding with Yoshi-san as he drives the Chevrolet Silverado 3500. The Silverado 3500 is big on its own but pulling the MOONEYES trailer too makes it really long.

7 o'clock in the morning and we leave MOONEYES USA!! Quickly on Freeway after Freeway, two and three lane roads the scenery starts to change.

Focused on the road in front of me a tire comes flying by in front of us and quickly out of sight. "Huh? That tire just now... wasn't that the from our trailer?" Somehow, a weld had come loose and the trailer's spare tire came flying off.

Luckily it didn't make contact with anyone and Willy and Kenny that had been following behind us recovered the tire. Now we restart our roadtrip! Just then, I noticed how the landscape was so amazing. I don't think you can see this kind of view in Japan. On this day, I don't know how many time I thought how nice the landscape and colors were.

Four hours into our trip and suddenly I notice casinos and large hotels. We are in Nevada! Yoshi-san explained, "Just like when you are in a different country the scenery is also different. It's the same thing from state to state" And he is so right, it was really noticeable. Within an hour we reached Las Vegas. It's super hot.

We take a pit stop for food and gas in Las Vegas, then continue on. While we had stopped we discovered that the Chevrolet Silverado's A/C was not working. Knowing that, it seemed to get even hotter. Getting beyond Las Vegas, there are no people and it's very desolate.

I don't know how long we had been driving and the day felt really long. Then the trailer in front of us started to stop. We reached Wendover! Our time of arrival was 7PM - 12 hours to travel 640 miles. Hmm? This view, I think I've seen it in a book before. All kinds of writing but standing out the most, oddly enough, is the word LARSEN painted in large block letters. What a strange feeling.

After the motel check in, thinking of tomorrow, we head over to the Bonneville Speedway entrance. "End of Road" as indicated on the map. The '27 Modified T Roadster in tow and all.

We get to "End of Road" shown on the map and the moon is already in the sky. Looking around and the scenery I notice Yoshi-san has gone over to the salt. "It's very hard and crunchy feeling" he says. It's like a dream come true to be able to actually stand on the legendary Salt Flats.

The "Bonneville Speedway" road sign displayed doesn't get smaller, the world around it begins to change to salt, a white salt world. Like driving through snow country, it is a very strange sensation. We arrive at the End of Road.

We get back to the motel, get some food for dinner and later head over to check out an area where hot rods had gathered in a casino parking lot. Initially, I had thought it was a special one-day event but come to find out, during Bonneville Speedweek, hot rods gather in the parking lots like this everyday. In a very friendly atmosphere, car after car, there are hot rods gathered. The scene is incredible. It's hard to describe. Like a hot rod heaven feeling.

By the way, running straight through here is the state line for Nevada and Utah. Cross one street and you are in a different state. The strange thing too is that Nevada and Utah are one hour apart in time zones! Now here's where it gets tricky. For example walking from the casino parking lot to the motel takes about 10 minutes. If I leave there at 11:00, I arrive at the hotel at 12:10! Be careful of lack of sleep.

17 AUG (SUNDAY)
We are out of the door at 4AM, the sun is not even out yet. With only the moonlight, we head for the Bonneville Salt Flats Speedway entrance. Gates open by 7AM so we must wait at "End of Road".

Gradually, the sun starts to make light on the landscape. The open space is serene and makes me think a bit more about this world we live in. Just after 6:30, we hear a burst of joy and cheers from people in line ahead of us - gates are opening - and all at once you hear everyone starting their engines. At last, we have officially entered Bonneville Salt Flats Speedway!!

We first move quickly to the official booth for inspection and then over to the pit area. The ground is really white. In any direction, it's perfectly level. "Awesome" is all I can say. No, it's all I can say over and over again repeatedly.

We get to the pit area and get out of the cars. You get an idea of what the ground looks like. El Mirage is crispy feeling too but Bonneville is like ice or snow. It feels smooth too. I couldn't resist, I had to taste it and sure enough, it's salt! However is quite bitter.

I went immediately to the inspection that was going on at the officials area. Since we had been lined up at 5AM this morning, we were first to get inspected. The car passed without any problems so we went back to the pit area.

I can't read the terms because it was written in English but I signed anyway and received my Pit Pass. '27 Modified T-LSR is returned to the pits. As we started preparations we learned that we would not be racing today so there wasn't a need to continue. It was 9:30AM. You mean we could have taken our time this morning? Maybe catch up on some much needed sleep? I soon learned the answers to those questions. Soon enough there were around 500 race vehicles which all needed inspections.

Coming late, you can expect to wait in line for inspection all day and it's possible that the day will end prior to getting inspected. That means you would have to come the next day and wait again.

There's a saying in English, "The early bird gets the worm." Just like the Japanese version which literally translates to, "One that awakes early gains 3 coins." The 3 coins bit is actually 3-mon. It's extinct (old) currency... and somehow I think it sounds better in Japanese! But the meanings of the two proverbs! The meanings are essentially the same.

Alright, I've been waiting for this time to come, from the early morning, "Hurry, I want to photograph the '27 Modified T-LSR" I was restless and itching. The sun was directly over head and our shadows were short. Just then, that's it!! We pushed the '27 Modified T-LSR to a good spot for a photograph opportunity. I climbed up a ladder for a memorial photograph. The photo was perfect, everything was perfect. After we took pictures, we returned to the pit area. I borrowed a bicycle and rode around the pits.

It wasn't as hot as El Mirage. However it was awfully bright!! Too bright. The light from the sun isn't blocked by anything and it's also reflected off the surface so there's double brightness and in both directions. It was even difficult to confirm the photos I was taking. I tried to playback or review a photo and there was so much light I couldn't see the screen.

In the evening, Fred's wife Marilou as well as Candy arrived on the scene. I met Marilou on my last trip at El Mirage. She was worried about me because of sunburn and the heat. Candy was also concerned and I am grateful they both looked after me. Sunscreen, water, they really took care! They only spoke English but we got by on gestures and some limited words I know. And this is how my first experience of Bonneville started.

18 AUG (MONDAY)
Today, we are set to race. Chico-san will drive his '27 Modified T-LSR in the Vintage Category, Blown Fuel Modified Roadster Class. The class record in this class was set two years in 2006 by Linsmeyer Motorsports at 181.709 mph. I wonder how fast Chico can run. The proportions are good and the car sits low.

現地でオフィシャルの方に頂いたコースプランがこちら。

Well rested, up early and again we are in Bonneville Salt Flats Pit Area with the trailer, get through out preparations and line up via the push truck. It actually seems like a short distance from the pit area to the line for the racing course but in reality, its more than 5km away. It actually takes a while to get from point to point. Chico will run the Short Course (3 miles). I head to the starting line and wait for the '27 Modified T-LSR to arrive. In the morning sun, I slowly look around at all the figures through my viewfinder thinking to myself, "It's all about to start." As I think this, I can feel my body getting nervous and excited.

At 9AM the Driver's Meeting is held and National Anthem is played. We are about to begin the 60th BONNEVILLE SPEEDWEEK

It is Hot Rodding history and a place of amazing stories that have a significant meaning all made right here where I stand is an unbelievable thought. I first learned of Speedweek in 1999. It was a magazine article about the 50th Speedweek and that was how I found out about this event. All that I had read about was about to take place right before my very eyes. One by one, cars begin to line up as far as I can see and slowly they begin the runs.

Chico-san is getting closer to the Start line.

11:41 AM
'27 Modified T-LSR 1st Start (Short Course) To a degree, I was a bit far away so that I could get a good shot and when I saw the push truck, they both passed by right in front of me for a just a moment.

As I got up to head back to the starting line, I could see Chico-san getting further away in the distance. Then I see the car move left one time then to the right, out of the course. "SPIN!" I see Zap-san and as if it's okay to go over to the car. He said the car didn't roll and it doesn't look like anything major but in any case he was pretty sure that only officials were allowed to go to the scene. You can see the response people immediately head to the car. I try to see Chico-san but make no sight of him. Then they come back this way and I meet Chico-san. "Are you OK?" I ask Chico-san. He rubs his head and shows me his thumb.

Makes the gesture to get back to hurry back to the truck. I get to the truck and it's packed with people. I say that I will walk back and proceed to head back to the pit area.

But is such a wide area…. No one walks. Here, someone that wants to walk might be a little reckless. I walk for a little while and then a car approaches and as it passes, the people I don't even know make a gesture and say, "Get in!"

They saved me! "Thank you!" I repeat to everyone in the car. I see these guys again during Speedweek and each time they always say, "Don't walk!!" - we managed to communicate in the car without really talking because I'm from Japan but it didn't matter as we understood each other. Complete strangers with a bond because of Speedweek.

Since Chico-san spun, the '27 Modified T-LSR had to be inspected and once it did it returned to the pit area. I see Chico-san and he approaches and asks, "Your sunburn okay?" I reply with, "No, no, are you okay?" and he just grins. I notice moments later he slowly poured cold runner on his head and chuckles. After lunch, maintenance is finished and then it was over to the line for a second run.

PM4:46
'27 Modified T-LSR 2nd Start (Short Course) This time it's on!! Go Chico-san!! As Chico-san lined up at the starting line, I confirmed a spot and decided I wasn't walking back to the pits this time. Once the car started on its run, I caught a ride back to the pits and waited. "Not yet, not yet?" I kept thinking while waiting and then I saw the push truck. Everyone face seemed concerned, it was a dark mood. It seemed that while on the run, the '27 Modified T-LSR something broke. Doug and Willie began repairs. Looking at the car I noticed the right side panel was warped. Later on I asked and was told that the blower burst plate had broke like this and caused the right side panel to warp. However, being that this a safety part for the blower, it was important to exchange the part. Work began and Bonneville Salt Flats was put second.

The entire day was beyond anything I would have imagined. Chico-san was a bit down. We ate at a burger shop and I could tell Doug was trying to cheer and encourage Chico-san up. Later, I heard Doug tell him that it's not always easy and trouble free as these things will happen. They talked for a while and we returned to the motel.

Here was my major SNAFU... We put everything down. I needed to get a change of clothes so I went back to the Van. Got the clothes from my bag, put everything back in its place, made sure I closed and locked the Van then proceeded back to the motel room. When I realize I didn't have the car keys I asked everyone if they saw them and looked everywhere. I went back to the Van to see if I dropped them, back tracking my steps, then looked at my bag in the Van and sure enough, the keys were sitting right next to it. Apologized to everyone profusely. Chico-san said there's a spare key in the Machine Shop. Yoshi-san says, "OK send him now to go get that spare!" I have a big rain cloud over my head, oh no... He was joking, and then Willie makes the gesture of holding a large rock and smashing the window, giving me advice. I then hear "HARIKIRI!!" and "Naked in the pool" I'm in the motel parking lot doing a Japanese style extreme apology, where you get on both knees and bow down for forgiveness. About an hour later AAA came and unlocked the door with ease. I was then the material for many a joke, hearing, "Hey PAN, where's that key I let you borrow?" Yoshi-san even said it brought Chico-san back to his happy mood. But I was really sorry to cause such trouble...

19 AUG (TUESDAY)
Race day two, we are all up to greet the morning. The weather is incredible. The morning is still cool as the temperature hasn't risen yet and it feels so good. Just as yesterday, we hit the pits and set up the Trailer and Shop, get maintenance work done, and head for the starting line. As we are waiting in the line I walk around the starting area like yesterday.

10:46 AM '27 Modified T-LSR 3rd Run Start (Short Course)
Once the '27 Modified T-LSR left and photographs were taken I immediately got a ride back to the pit are to wait. This time, everything seemed right. The sound of the car, its acceleration looked quick. Maybe? You think? I waited. Look at this smile. Easily understood. You didn't have to ask him as you could tell the results were pleasing. The recorded speed was 181.499 mph. The class record is 181.709 mph not even 1 mph. "You will do it!!" The whole team in high spirits, we all prepared for the next run.

2:22 PM
'27 Modified T-LSR 4th Run Start (Short Course) Just as prior, I stood a far as possible away from Chico-san and waited to get a good shot of the start. "Faster Chico-san!!" Quickly head back to the pit and wait for his return. For some reason, Chico-san didn't come back to the pits. Then Candy's mobile phone rings and she starts talking to someone. Time to break down the tent because it seems we were moving to another location. I didn't quite understand until later. We were moving to an area called "IMPOUND" and that's when I heard his speed result.

Record was 184.204 mph. That was record level speed so Chico-san qualified for a Record Run (the return) on the Short Course the next morning. If the average speed of the two runs is high enough, it will set a new speed record.

Known as the IMPOUND, it is a pit area for qualified vehicles. Instead of returning to the pit area, it is parked in the IMPOUND area. There must be a lot of pressure for tomorrow. Willie said, "Oh yeah! Chico will be beyond nervous tomorrow." He was playing around. In the IMPOUND area they took care of any maintenance and Bonneville Salt Flats was put to the side.

20 AUG (WEDNESDAY)
The sun had not come up yet at 6AM. Relying on the headlights of the car we prepared for the races that start at 7AM. Record Runs begin first thing in the morning. Even so, look at all the record potential racers in the IMPOUND area. Motorcycles too. Everyone here had the potential to be world record holders if they were not already. I wish they all were was my true feeling. 7AM: with the sun bringing first light, the races begin!!

8:07 AM
- '27 Modified T-LSR 5th Run Start (Short Course) This time after leaving the starting line, we hurried to the Emergency Area to wait. Thus far, I have been at the starting line only. Slowly but surely I locate the '27 Modified T-LSR!

I wonder what the speed was? Once again without even asking, you could just read Chico-san's body language. Looks better than yesterday... perhaps more than 200 mph??? We take a group photo. On the way back on the return road, Doug received a sheet from an official. I get out of the car following him and he tells me to come around this way pointing at Chico. I wonder, "Something happened?" Chico-san wanted to see the sheet and Doug slowly hands it over. 196.458 mph!! Along with yesterday's average, the official speed was 190.331 mph - a new world record speed!! Everyone was overcome with joy! I can't believe it but am so happy to be standing right here!

Getting to this point, it's over to the Long Course for 200 mph!!

5:21 PM '27 Modified T-LSR 6th Run Start (Long Course)
Now, it's my first time on the push truck which give an entirely different angle of watching the race.

Results come back: 195.420 mph. Short of making the 200 mark. However, the results again average to beat the record Chico-san just made so the car is returned again at the IMPOUND area. Tomorrow is also the last day of the races so whether or not he beats his new record, it's the last race. Once the race is finished we head back to California. Cry or Laugh, tomorrow is the final day.

21 AUG (THURSDAY)
The final day at Bonneville Salt Flats. As we did yesterday, we head to the IMPOUND area, set up, prepare, and proceed to the Long Course starting line. One after another, heading into the sun cars start their pass. After a number of starts the '27 Modified T-LSR is at the line. Suddenly it's noisy and the emergency vehicles start heading to the Emergency Area. An accident has occurred. Races are stopped for the moment. They follow strict safety procedures. Although it may seem strict it is important because the speeds each car runs is so great that the smallest thing can cause an accident. There have been deaths at Speedweek in passed years. Once the accident is checked and the race course is cleared, the races continue.

8:30 AM
'27 Modified T-LSR 7th Run Start (Long Course) After seeing that there was an accident I said, "Be careful Chico-san!" and he left the starting line. Headed back to the pit area and we began to clean up and pack up. Seeing Chico-san's face as he returned to where we were, you could kind of tell he didn't go over 200 mph. His speed was 192.274 mph. Although the 200 mark was not reached, we still go home with a new world record of 193.847 mph!! Even so, preparation for our return home was in a quiet manner.

OK then, let us take one last memorial photo!!

My first time experience of Bonneville Speedweek was over. On the way home, while looking at the landscapes I thought about the passed three days. My personal experience at El Mirage a few months ago was unbelievable. I drank water knowing my life depended on it. I saw an uncountable amount of cars and bikes, met so many people and shook so many hands. This time it was that and much more. I was truly moved by everything that happened in front of my very eyes. From the moment you get up in the morning to the last second when you lay down at night, if you love Hot Rods then each day was surely like heaven.
My experience of America has included nothing but the kindest people and this trip was just the same. I met a lot of kind people that also helped me without even thinking twice and has provided me with such valuable memories that will last forever.

Chico-san's '27 Modified T-LSR might make that 200 mph next time!! I wish that the world of Land Speed Racing would get more exposure in Japan and more Japanese be able to see and hear about it. For this reason, I wanted to write as much as possible, not just the races but my personal level of experience from these trips. It makes the report longer to read but I am thankful you have read this.

"Don't Sleep!!!!!" Drifting off into a daze all of a sudden the car window is opened all the way and the wind comes in. In a loud voice Willie says, "You can sleep, but I can't sleep because I gotta drive! So don't sleep. Want a cookie?" I reply with, "...Thank you!!" and then Kenny said while laughing, "Hey you can speak English!" I laugh out loud. Then the two of them start singing the song on the radio out loud and moving their whole body, dancing too! These two are tough. Oh yeah, I am not done with my trip yet. I still have to return to California! Until the last minute, the trip is enjoyed!

PAN